The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

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Wilderness #176

Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall and have a great time doing it. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something from these conversations, or at the very least, get really stoked to climb and train.

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Recent Reviews
  • Reverend Jim 70
    Where did all the content go?
    There are only 15 episodes available. I wanted to listen to some older podcasts.
  • JT123@@
    Psychobabel
    Unlistenable…Psychobabel as of 2024
  • Richie901111
    OG Training Podcast
    Love to listen to Neely and Alex chatting. Lots of good info.
  • james.cranston
    One of my favorite podcasts I listen to!
    I’ve been listening to The TrainingBeta Podcast since it’s beginning, and it’s easily the most listened to podcast for me. Neely and her team do such a good job curating the best guests that showcase the highlights of climbing, from top-level climbers, nutritionists, strength and conditioning coaches and athletes, and so many other people that have a positive addition to the sport. Neely does a fantastic job asking pointed questions that bring out critical dialog from her conversations with guests. From this podcast I learned that there’s so much that goes into climbing well, from a nutrition, training, and psychological perspective. A huge amount of my progression as an athlete in climbing can be attributed to TrainingBeta and the podcast - thanks again for this great resource!
  • ksmiles92
    Too Woke and political now
    I’ve been listening for a few years now but sadly woke ness has infected our climbing community. I get a sense sometimes that Neely may be at least trying to keep it neutral, but it’s slipping. The girl who was on here saying capitalism is an evil scandal was ridiculous to me. Definition of liberal privilege. Capitalism is the reason you can screw off and go climbing while you contribute nothing to your career. Also if you are “passionate about climate change” you wouldn’t be working 20 hours a week. Get someone in there who cares about what they do. Climbing went from being a cool hippie dirtbag sport to being infected by rich liberal elitist. They are the only ones who can afford it anyways.
  • Jlifts
    Nailing it.
    This podcast has been fantastic for my motivation. The wealth of knowledge shared here is worth so much. Everything from training, injury recovery, defining quality sessions and so much more. Thank you so much Neely for putting this together and bringing so many great people on the podcast!
  • imagumbyforlyfe
    Great guests bring lots of potential but
    Neely brings guests that have potential to share valuable content and perspectives but her interviewing skills completely lack substance and quality. This is so painful to listen to. For example, when a guest speaks of their passions and accomplishments, the interviewer responds with “nice” or “for sure, definitely.” These are not the types of responses that promote interesting and open dialogue.
  • True Realist
    Knocking it out of the park!
    Recent series of interviews has been tremendous. This podcast just gets better and better.
  • Matabar
    68 year old climber
    Great interview with your MIL. I loved hearing from a woman who keeps on going! It’s about time that young women hear from an older one that we don’t have to give up and get old. We can keep pushing through the so called limits for many more decades!
  • Rabertron
    Astonishingly hard to listen to
    Perhaps I am dating myself but this podcast is effectively The Chris Farley Show from 90s SNL. So….was that, uhh, cool?? Decent guests, who can sometimes manage to carry an episode despite the best efforts of the host to drain any and all energy or basic critical thinking from the “conversation”. It’s really, really hard listening, and these days there are better places to get information online about the same subjects. I recently listened to an episode that took Neely’s stylistic problems and ignorance about interviewing dynamics to a dark place, where she gave a platform to and encouraged a mentally ill climber to describe in detail her disordered and self destructive training behaviors. This seemed to just go on and on, and soon ran 100% in opposition to the stated thesis of the episode (which was to describe how elite running and climbing can be accomplished together (which they can, apparently, for a short time, through anorexia, exercise compulsion, and extreme dieting and time management strategies while sacrificing performance in both sports)). And as for this weird “it’s free don’t complain” response I see in the reviews, that is just irrational and I suspect you know that. Allllllll the podcasts here are free to us, or just cost our time to listen to ads. That has zero bearing on the relevance of criticism. This podcast takes up space in the online library of climbing information, and it is on the whole low quality information delivered in a low quality way. That is relevant for anyone looking for high quality information or content. If you can enjoy the first ten minutes of any episode, maybe this is perfect for you. But I continue to be shocked at the lack of learning and improvement Neely demonstrates on this podcast.
  • DarkStar⚡️
    Woke Beta Podcast
    Originally my girlfriend and I loved listening to this podcast on road trips when we were getting ready to head to a new crag. Now it’s so hard to listen because it’s too woke. When it comes to issues like gender equality, of course this is necessary and is a quality that is beneficial to society but I don’t need this shoved down my throat every single time I want to listen about training for climbing. I’m over this podcast.
  • 45678325
    Best climbing podcast
    My favorite climbing podcast out there! You rock, Neely!
  • --liam--
    Doesn’t meet standards of time or age
    This show has been around for a while. Many of the old episodes are good. It seems like it was an early climbing podcast that spent years getting conversations with great guests. Those that gave a platform for a prepared coach, doctor or PT were particularly good. However, the production is embarrassingly poor, and Neely remains a notably unskilled interviewer. It‘s inconsistent with the amount experience she has with the show, which makes it feel a tad lazy. Neely often uses the interviews to talk about herself, her injuries, her nutrition beliefs, her climbing trips, and not to show off her guest. Her guest’s audio is often unlistenable, and her own audio quality is amateur. I believe Neely knows what it takes to hold a good interview and produce a professional podcast. I hope she starts putting in that effort or calls it a day on her show.
  • PrimeNumbersOnly
    Great content, great host
    Neely asked good questions and let her guests talk. It’a actually refreshing. Equally important is the lack of sophomoric bantering and unnecessary sound bites. I strongly disagree with the negativity and criticism.
  • Boner brigade
    Lots of great content production could be improved
    Over the last few months production quality has dropped off. From stereo channels that play only one voice in an ear to the latest which ends in the middle of a sentence. Still heaps of great info but has been either impossible to listen to with headphones or just kinda frustrating.
  • Buddy Adam
    I like it
    I find it interesting how much people hate on free content. Thanks for the show Neely
  • VMK90
    Has potential but...
    The host sounds SO BORED when conducting interviews! I really want to like this podcast because I think there’s so much potential content-wise, but I literally cannot listen to it because it lacks any sort of energy. I would imagine it would be so disheartening to be a guest on this podcast because the guests genuinely seem jazzed to be on the show, only to be greeted by a host who seems dull and uninterested.
  • SuperDave$$$
    Informative but feels like I’m watching CSPAN
    Used to be 100% training talk which was awesome but now has morphed into a part time SJW class. That’s cool I’m in support but I hear enough of it everywhere else and just want Training(Beta) tips .
  • David121127
    Best climbing podcast
    Great podcast
  • _Benoblest
    Great training podcast
    Not sure why there’s negative reviews. Neely always asks the guests the exact questions I’m thinking in my grad. Perfect podcast for the intermediate climber looking to get better. Thanks Neely!
  • westieluv24
    Host needs to step it up
    There are so many great guests on this podcast, but I inevitably find myself turning off each episode partway through because the host always seems unprepared and slightly uninterested. It often feels like the guests are caught off guard and that the host hasn’t done her research. Needs more energy.
  • kyleHarmer
    Love it
    I’m returning to climbing after a long break. I’ve started a training program, and this podcast is perfect for me. Great guests, great topics. Awesome
  • BriC1926
    Love this podcast
    I especially liked the recent episode 136 with the 5.11 climber! I’ve been trying to figure out how to scale back the training advice of this podcast to my level, and this was really helpful. Would love to hear from some more of the recent lady crushers: Margo Hayes, Brooke Rabatou, Emily Harrington, Natalie Grossman. And would love to hear more in depth explanation of what the antagonist/opposition muscles are for climbers and how much to train them to stay strong and injury free.
  • jmiyo
    Love this podcast!
    I’ve listened to almost all of this podcast and absolutely love it! Super informative and helpful. Perfect for my commute every day and to get psyched for climbing.
  • shelbykincaid
    Insufferable interview style
    Content and guests are good enough I guess, but Neely is so low energy and boring that my ears can’t tolerate it. Just have to be brutally honest. These aren’t very conversational, and they don’t flow. They’re rigid, cookie-cutter, one-way interviews. I feel like every episode I’ve listened to is more of the same, and it’s nothing I can’t find online. There are so many interesting podcasts out there I’d rather spend my valuable time on.
  • Benny Migs
    New climber
    I’m a new climber and stumbled across this podcast. I listened to episodes and was hooked. I been binging all of them. Neely ask very detailed questions. In fact I find myself asking the guest a question in my head and then Neely ask that question. Thank you Neely for the hard work.
  • AJAlabs
    Best podcast in my library
    Saying that TrainingBeta is the best climbing podcast would be an understatement. Personally, I think it’s the best podcast available. There’s so much educational content packed into every episode. Neely is such an eloquent speaker and she always ask they right questions!
  • aspiring climber
    Variety!
    I have loved all the podcasts I have listened to this far. I think the topics are really interesting and I loved hearing from known climbers, such as Sasha. I would recommend doing a little more variety. My favorite podcast was actually the most recent one you did with your friend who overcame her fear and sent her first 12a. I love hearing from the professionals because it’s really inspiring and interesting to hear their journey, but I loved hearing about our friend because it was so relatable. She made it known that she is a “normal person” who just found herself climbing one day and sent a 12a and she is really passionate about it. I would love to hear more stories like this, focusing on topics such as that one because that is such a common dilemma a lot of newer/intermediate climbers run into. I know I fall under that realm of climbers who has plateaued and is looking to improve and need a little inspiration from people who are very aware of how tough it can be. Overall though, such a good podcast! I love listening :)
  • BBLOX
    The Host Hasnt Learned a Thing from Her Guests
    I am always amazed at how little Neely has learned from her previous guests. Every episode she asks her guest at least one question, usually more, that I learned the answer to on one of her previous episodes. It's consistent too. And these aren't questions meant to educate her naive audience like many podcast hosts ask their guests, they are questions that she actually doesnt know the answer to. Neely, go back and listen to your podcast and maybe write stuff down or make some sort of effort to retain the information so that you can avoid asking questions like "what is chisel" or "what is aerocap" or saying things like "Literally no one on my show has ever said that before" when I have heard that exact thing expressed by more than one of your guests over the years. I appreciate the podcast and have learned a lot from it over the years, especially in the beginning when it was more interesting, so its not completely terrible, but listening to Neely ask questions that she should absolutley know the answer to by now is infuriating. Do you just not care to learn? I dont get it. I have learned more from your guests than you have. That shouldn't be the case.
  • Midoriness13
    Fantastic!
    Very informative... thank you, Neeley!
  • Zagnut999
    Fantastic
    I’ve recently returned to climbing after decades of absence. I’ve been listening to this podcast and am up to episode 25. It is both educational and inspiring. I appreciate the thoughtfulness of the people interviewed and Neely’s interjection of personal experience. I haven’t used any of the training that they offer but hope to as I get up to speed.
  • jac in the rocks
    Love the podcast!
    Neely, these interviews ROCK! The diversity of interviewees is great and inspiring. I'm only up to the beginning of 2016, but so far I can confirm that Steve Bechtel is effing hilarious -- bring him back whenever possible. Jared Vagy's book has been a big help with dodgy elbows and shoulder issues. I get a little insight into training from each episode. I've been bouldering for a couple years, but am stuck at the V6 level. At least in the South Bay SF, coaching seems geared toward kids and teams. Any podcast insight on finding an in-person coach for intermediate level adults with jobs/kids would be great. Thanks for all the effort you put into this.
  • Arizonaclimbing
    Love it
    I just started listening and can't stop. It is so much better hearing from a number of accomplished climbers on what works and doesn't work.
  • Wgalbrd
    Just what the climbing world needs!
    I loved this podcast from episode 1, and I can’t believe it took me so long to find it. I listen to it all day at work, and it inspires me to get to the wall and work hard. It’s the perfect way to keep the psych and stoke going strong for those who live to climb. Thanks Neely!
  • This app is groovy
    Love it!
    Great podcast Neely! I love listening to these. I was wondering, if it’s not too much trouble, if you could ask the trainers/physical therapists/climbers about how/if/when they stretch? It’s just not something I hear about often unless I’m searching for it specifically and I thought it might be something to add to each episode. If not I’ll be listening anyway! You’re awesome! Thanks for all the work you do :)
  • Climb-girl
    Educational but closed minded!!
    I’ve been enjoying the podcast and love the information. The Alex Bible interview is my favorite so far, I love his passion! I get super irritated and want to turn off your podcast every time you say something about carbs. I was paleo for years, and switched to keto 2 months ago(no more than 20 carbs a day). Since going keto I’ve gained strength, recover faster, & am climbing harder than ever. Carbs aren’t all they are cracked up to be. Plus it’s nice to be in the gyms for hours and not need to go grab a snack and refuel. I know you have a podcast on keto too, but PLEASE stop bagging on it every time you get a chance!
  • Mjpeester
    Beggars can’t be choosers but...
    Amazing access to guests; ho-hum low-energy interviewer. So much more potential here.
  • Americancosmonaut
    Horrible Interview skills. Just listen to the guests
    Neely needs to come more prepared for each guest and not just ask the first things that come to her head. Listen to other podcasts and take some notes Neely. Ive listened to every episode thinking maybe she'll get better but not so much. I love listening to her guests but not her. Also what happened to the Margo interview?
  • SisterCities
    Pleasant Inspiration!
    I love this podcasts. Neely does a great job interviewing guests!
  • WhitP865
    Poor sound quality
    It's pretty rare that anything from the podcast can be put to use in any training sense. It's mostly like "how'd you get so strong?" The interviewing overall is hit or miss. Good luck hearing the guests the sound is always poor.
  • KBtoys27
    Adapting what's right for you
    I've been listening to the podcast for quite a while now; having started listening shortly after its first episode. One thing I've noticed across the numerous episodes I've listened to, their are varying opinions about what's best for climbers in categories such as nutrition and fitness. With all the information that gets presented, you have to adapt a program that's right for you. One specific exercise for someone might not be right for you. Just because person X says paleo is the best diet for climbers doesn't mean it's right for you. The other thing I've noticed is that all the guests also make it a point to say that what they think is best or their way of training isn't going to be for everyone. It's not cookie cutter. Neely has a way of getting her guests to open up and share information that will help make everybody better. The variety of guests is also great; it's nice to get all the different perspectives from various people within the climbing world. I've begun to work in some forms of training that have been heavily discussed and I'm seeing more progress in my climbing. Thank you Neely for what you're doing and I'm looking forward to more episodes. And keep interviewing Steve Bechtel!!!
  • Plussizepuller
    Great podcast
    This is my favorite podcast for climbing training. Good job team!
  • Shadow of the Dome
    Well done.
    Very informative on training issues. There are a number of interviews I listen to many times over. One of my favorite podcasts.
  • chengjixuan
    Great!
    Hi, Thanks. I think Neely really good at asking questions. I'm really enjoy them
  • Maria Ursula
    Love it
    This is a really fantastic podcast.
  • rocksandwoks
    No where else to get this info
    Neely interviews people who have really interesting things to say, and talks about a topic that no magazine or video is covering. The interviews can be a little self-involved and are definintely skewed towards the Boulder, Co climbing lifestyle, but the desire to improve is universal among host, guets, and listeners, and for detailed training information, this is simply the best primary source. Thank you, Neely.
  • TradAlex512
    Fantastic for information and motivation
    These are some terrific interviews with great people in the climbing community. Neely finds a wide mix of folks to speak with, and I've learned a lot about topics to which I normally may not have paid attention, like nutrition, yoga, shoulder health and many, many others. Always interesting, often entertaining.
  • Danny and Wendy
    Obsessed Recreational Climber
    I'm addicted to the T-Beta podcast. My wife and I look forward to long drives so we can listend to the lates T-Beta podcasts. I undertook a very ambitious project that was significantly above my abillty level. I subscribed to many of the training ideas I listened to on the podcast. The information was super helpful in sending my hardest sport climb to date. My wife and I are big fans. Thanks Neely and Seth for the awesome work!
  • Chummington
    Less chit chat, more training beta
    To be fair I only listened to the J. Siegrist episode, perhaps the others are less chit-chatty but I felt like I was waiting for more training beta. This episode had bits of training beta with lots of talk about JS”s sends. He’s amazing and its cool to hear his accomplishments but I was hoping to hear lots of great training advice. I would encourage the podcast to stay on topic (maybe shorter episodes) and not get into small talk. I might try another episode but if its the same I would be less likely to listen to more.
  • Bluecollarclimbing
    Excellent guests, poor interviewer
    The featured guests are excellent, which is fortunate because without their expertise these interviews would flounder. The interviewer, Neely, asks generic and circular questions that take the interview nowhere. The first fifteen minutes in every podcast are usually some of the most irritating as she warms up her guest. Fortunately, the guests come better prepared than she does and their expertise kicks in. The guest will often just start taking the interview over, delivering great insight and tips, when they get tired of the vague and wandering line of questions. Worth listening to for the high quality experts in medicine, climbing, and training for climbing featured...but Neely needs to step up her interview skills and come prepared with better questions than: "So tell me what you've been up to?" (Right after she introduces the guest by telling us what they've "been up to").
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